{"id":14,"date":"2020-02-07T16:02:13","date_gmt":"2020-02-07T16:02:13","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/pierrick-dufray.eurosof.de\/?page_id=14"},"modified":"2026-02-23T17:32:49","modified_gmt":"2026-02-23T17:32:49","slug":"herat-la-sereine","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/pierrick-dufray.eurosof.de\/en\/le-grand-voyage\/herat-la-sereine\/","title":{"rendered":"Herat the serene"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Turkey and Iran<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Herat, the serene<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

“Herat is a paradox, a city without houses or streets. The first impression might cause unease. For me, it was amazement…
It captivated me at first sight and never let go.
Every time I am asked about my trip…I answer:
\u2018The change of scenery began in Herat. Until then, it was more or less d\u00e9j\u00e0 vu.\u2019…
The wonderful thing about Herat is that it is neither poor nor miserable in reality, even if a Western perspective sees only poverty and misery. The streets are made of clay, with clay sidewalks and clay gutters. The flat, single-story houses are made of clay, of mud bricks, with a roof of clay or branches.\u201c<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jack Thieuloy \u201d<\/em>En route vers l’Inde<\/em><\/strong>” (On the way to India)<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Arrival in Afghanistan.
A temporal and cultural shock, an immersion in a medieval and hallucinogenic world.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In Islam Qala, the border marks a radical break: customs officials in rags, barren landscapes, and a surreal administration.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"L\u2019attribut<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Herat, a quiet artisan town, contrasts with the west, as there is no loud modernity here. We adopt the local customs (traditional clothing, tea sweetened with candy<\/em>, chilom made from sandalwood).<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"L\u2019attribut<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n
\n
\"L\u2019attribut
View from the room over the rooftops of the city<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Afghan hashish (\u201cBlack Afghan\u201d) becomes a means of spiritual liberation. The scenes at the bazaar, in repair shops, or the veiled women we observe from a rooftop (before we are driven away) reinforce the impression of a dreamlike world between One Thousand and One Nights<\/em> and raw realism (flies on meat, poverty).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n
I buy a knife and an indian chilum
<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

We spend the evening in a chaikana from another world.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThe Afghans in the Chaikana, all stoned as is customary here, let their instruments explode in a hypnotic rhythm, the Bobol spins, the hookah spins, the dancers spin like dervishes, everything spins\u2026 Our lungs explode, saturated with this intoxicating smoke\u2026\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

An old Afghan, a great pothead before the gods, leads us through his shack, a shack from One Thousand and One Nights.”
Civilization is now far, far away.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Crazy Kabul<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Turkey and Iran Herat, the serene “Herat is a paradox, a city without houses or streets. The first impression might cause unease. For me, it was amazement…It captivated me at first sight and never let go.Every time I am asked about my trip…I answer:\u2018The change of scenery began in Herat. Until then, it was more … <\/p>\n

Continue reading “Herat the serene”<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"parent":29,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-14","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry"],"translation":{"provider":"WPGlobus","version":"3.0.2","language":"en","enabled_languages":["de","fr","en"],"languages":{"de":{"title":true,"content":true,"excerpt":false},"fr":{"title":true,"content":true,"excerpt":false},"en":{"title":true,"content":true,"excerpt":false}}},"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/pierrick-dufray.eurosof.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/14","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/pierrick-dufray.eurosof.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/pierrick-dufray.eurosof.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/pierrick-dufray.eurosof.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/pierrick-dufray.eurosof.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=14"}],"version-history":[{"count":28,"href":"https:\/\/pierrick-dufray.eurosof.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/14\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1204,"href":"https:\/\/pierrick-dufray.eurosof.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/14\/revisions\/1204"}],"up":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/pierrick-dufray.eurosof.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/29"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/pierrick-dufray.eurosof.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=14"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}